Thursday, March 24, 2016
21 MARCH: Monday Mornings at Mertasari are always quiet, after the deluge of Sunday beach-combers . This morning the pondok merana, my local coffee shop, is closed and i have ended up at Siska's Siomay stall with pak basir and the Banyuwangi tradesmen from the spa project rising illicitly on the sandbar . Its a fresh morning and there is a whiff of the surreal in the air. Schools of teri fish are splashing in the rising tide ; an unusual spanish couple arrives and orders a young coconut in perfect Indonesian. Pak Basir nibbles on fried yam. Siska screams "omaygod" a lot
18 MARCH: Heavenly golden dawn at Mertasari after a steamy night at Pura Maospahit, Singgi watching the famous black barong put a boat-load of patih into trance.
At the pondok merana the chorus of security chubs arrive, like heavily sedated, well-fed dawn raiders , and squat.
Four students chat merrily on the limestone bank, admiring the spa complex lumbung rising like giant shaggy mushrooms on the near shore.
Mega-spunk Kadek jogs past with four labradors, but refuses to be photographed
Monday, March 14, 2016
15 MARCH: Taman Inspirasi the former Taman Katuk sandbar has this week sprouted beach-side rice barns (lumbung), soon to be a holistic spa next to the plastic swan boats and camel stables. Its incredible how quickly Balinese developers can transform a delightful slice of unique wild nature into a messy theme park and then complain about Jakartan investors threating to ruin benoa bay. S i g h . Meanwhile, the sun also rises.
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